Spreading is a process by
which plies of fabric is spreaded in order to get required length and width as
per marker dimension.
In other words, spreading is
the process of stacking of layers of fabric to allow simultaneous cutting. The
marker is laid on the top most of the layer.
Factors considered for the ply/lay height determination
•
Thickness of the fabric :-When
thickness of the fabric is more, ply height should be less & number of
plies may be higher in case of thin fabric.
•
Cutting knife height :-Lay
height should maximum be 70% of cutting knife height.
•
Volume of production :-
If volume of production requires numbers of ply may be higher, i.e. height of
the lay should be higher.
Nature of the fabric :-
Ply height is determined by the nature of fiber by which fabric is made up. In
case of same numbers of ply, cotton may be cut but man made fiber may not be
cut.
Requirements of fabric spreading
Basic requirements:
•
Alignments of fabric plies :-Every
ply should comprise the length and width of the marker plan but should have
minimum extra outside those measurements. If alignment of fabric plies is not
appropriate then parts of some pattern pieces would be missing after cutting.
•
Correct ply tension :-
Fabric plies should spread in a stretched state thus can maintain their tension
while held by lay. If tension of plies is not uniform they will lie in ridges
as well as cause shrinkage problems in garments parts.
•
Fabric must be flat :-
The fabric laid on the table should be flat otherwise there may be ridges in
it. To make flat leveling equipment’s are used.
Additional requirements:
•
Elimination of fabric faults :-Fabric
faults should be eliminated during spreading. The spreader can cut across the
faulty ply position and pulls back the cut end to overlap as far back.
•
Correct ply direction & lay
stability :- It is essential to spread the fabric maintaining
the particular direction of pattern pieces in the marker plan. If the pattern
pieces are asymmetrical, all the pieces are face up and face down.
•
Elimination of static electricity :-If
plies of fabric contain synthetic fibers, friction may increase due to the
charge of static electricity in the fabric. Static electricity can be
eliminated by increasing humidity or earthing the lay.
•
Easy separation of cut lay into
bundles :- Identification marks are used into plies due to color
and shade variation of the fabric. For this separation, low valued colored
paper is used to plies.
•
Avoidance of fusion of plies during
cutting :- In case of thermoplastic fabric may fuse during
cutting due to the friction of cutting knife. We can prevent this by-
Ø Using
anti-fusion paper
Ø Using
silicon lubricants
Ø Reducing
ply height
Avoidance of distortion in the spread
:-There should not be unnecessary friction between the
bottom of the spread and the surface of the table. To avoid the distortion of
lay, a hard polyethene sheet is laid at the bottom of the spread. Distortion in
the spread causes snagging of the fabric.
Matching checks or stripes:-If
the fabric is checked or stripped then it must be laid to the marker plan by
matching with the help of needle.
