Fabric Spreading

 

Spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spreaded in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension.

In other words, spreading is the process of stacking of layers of fabric to allow simultaneous cutting. The marker is laid on the top most of the layer.

Factors considered for the ply/lay height determination

•      Thickness of the fabric :-When thickness of the fabric is more, ply height should be less & number of plies may be higher in case of thin fabric.

•      Cutting knife height :-Lay height should maximum be 70% of cutting knife height.

•      Volume of production :- If volume of production requires numbers of ply may be higher, i.e. height of the lay should be higher.

Nature of the fabric :- Ply height is determined by the nature of fiber by which fabric is made up. In case of same numbers of ply, cotton may be cut but man made fiber may not be cut.

Requirements of fabric spreading

Basic requirements:

•      Alignments of fabric plies :-Every ply should comprise the length and width of the marker plan but should have minimum extra outside those measurements. If alignment of fabric plies is not appropriate then parts of some pattern pieces would be missing after cutting.

•      Correct ply tension :- Fabric plies should spread in a stretched state thus can maintain their tension while held by lay. If tension of plies is not uniform they will lie in ridges as well as cause shrinkage problems in garments parts.

•      Fabric must be flat :- The fabric laid on the table should be flat otherwise there may be ridges in it. To make flat leveling equipment’s are used.

Additional requirements:

•      Elimination of fabric faults :-Fabric faults should be eliminated during spreading. The spreader can cut across the faulty ply position and pulls back the cut end to overlap as far back.

•      Correct ply direction & lay stability :- It is essential to spread the fabric maintaining the particular direction of pattern pieces in the marker plan. If the pattern pieces are asymmetrical, all the pieces are face up and face down.

•      Elimination of static electricity :-If plies of fabric contain synthetic fibers, friction may increase due to the charge of static electricity in the fabric. Static electricity can be eliminated by increasing humidity or earthing the lay.

•      Easy separation of cut lay into bundles :- Identification marks are used into plies due to color and shade variation of the fabric. For this separation, low valued colored paper is used to plies.

•      Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting :- In case of thermoplastic fabric may fuse during cutting due to the friction of cutting knife. We can prevent this by-

Ø Using anti-fusion paper

Ø Using silicon lubricants

Ø Reducing ply height

  

Avoidance of distortion in the spread :-There should not be unnecessary friction between the bottom of the spread and the surface of the table. To avoid the distortion of lay, a hard polyethene sheet is laid at the bottom of the spread. Distortion in the spread causes snagging of the fabric.

Matching checks or stripes:-If the fabric is checked or stripped then it must be laid to the marker plan by matching with the help of needle.