Garments Cutting

 

Cutting: Cut out the garment pieces from the lays of fabric with the help of cutting template or marker   or process of separating garment parts from the fabric lay in precise size and shape

Requirements of fabric cutting :

Precision of cut : must be cut precisely to the size and shape of the pattern; It depends on-

1. The method of cutting adapted

2. The marker planning

3. Marker making/duplicating

4. Condition of the cutting machine

5. Skill ness and attentiveness of the operator

 Clean edges: Fabric edges should be smooth and clean, the raw edges of the fabric should not show fraying or snagging.

Unfused edges: Heat generated from the friction, leads fused the raw edges of thermoplastic fiber fabrics, in extreme cases,

 1.difficult to separate individual plies

2.Forced separation leads snagged edges, and in cases hard edge is     uncomfortable in wear

Remedies:

• Use anti-fusion paper between the layers.
• Use silicon lubricants on to the blade.
• Spraying the blade with air coolant lubricant.
• Slowing down the speed of the blade.
• Reducing the height of the lay.
• Use well sharpened blade.

Support of the lay:

    Surface of the lay should be strong enough to bear the weight of cutting lay and allow the movement of the cutting machine. Cutting system must allow the blade to penetrate the lowest ply of the spread.

Consistent cutting      

Cutting should be consistent whatever the cutting method. Top to bottom ply of a lay should be in same size and shape.

Cutting Methods

Methods of cutting:

        1. Completely manual technique-Hand operated scissors.

        

        2. Manually operated powered knife

                             a. Straight Knife

                             b. Round knife

                             c. Band knife

                             d. Die cutter

                             e. Notcher

                             f. Drill

       3.Computerized technique.

                             a. Knife cutting

                             b. Cutting by water jet

                             c. Laser cutting

                             d. Plasma torch cutting

                   Completely manual technique-Hand operated scissors

    

     Various types of scissor are normally used when cutting only single or double plies.

Advantages:

•         Suitable for small production.

•         Easy to operate.

•         Used for tailoring & domestic purposes.

•         Used in garments manufacturing.

•         Suitable for making sample garments.

Disadvantages:

•         Time consuming method.

•         High labor cost per garment.

•         Fabric wastage is very high.

•         Limitation to use in garments industry.