Thursday 31 August 2023

THERMAL PROPERTIES

 

THERMAL PROPERTIES

Thermal Properties:

The behaviour shown by a textile material when it is subjected to heat is known as thermal property. Followings are the thermal properties of a textile material-

v  Thermal conductivity
v  Glass transition temperature
v  Melting temperature
v  Thermal expansion
v  Heat of wetting or heat of absorption
v  Heat setting

v  Thermal conductivity:

Thermal conductivity is the rate of transfer of heat in calorie along the body of a textile material by conduction. Higher conductivity of a material indicates that the heat will pass through the material very easily.

Woolen dresses are comfortable to wear during winter season due to its lower conductivity and cotton dresses are comfortable to wear in summer season because of its higher conductivity.

Typical values of thermal conductivity for some fibres:

Fibre                                      Thermal conductivity (mWm-1K-1)

Cotton                                      71
Wool                                        54
Silk                                           50
(Above thermal conductivity of fibres with a bulk density of 0.5 gm/cm3)
PVC                                          160
Cellulose acetate                    230
Nylon                                       250
Polyester                                 140
Polyethylene                           340
Polypropylene                          120

v  Glass transition temperature:

The temperature up to which a textile material behaves hard as like glass and after which it behaves soft as like rubber is known as glass transition temperature and it is expressed by Tg. The range of Tg lies between -1000 C to 3000 C.

Factors influence the Tg value of polymers:

v  Higher the flexibility of chain bond, lower will be the Tg value.
v  Composition of ring structure in molecular chain raises the value of Tg.
v  Bulky side groups raise the value of Tg.
v  Flexibility of side groups decreases the value of Tg.
v  Tg increases with molecular weight upto 20,000.
v  Polarity of side groups increases the value of Tg.
v  Co-polymers have lower value of Tg than homo-polymers.
v  Increase of orientation restrict the chain movement and increase the value of Tg. (Tg of undrawn polymer fibre is 1100C whereas Tg of fully drawn polymer fibre is 1500C)

v  Melting temperature:

The temperature at which a textile material melts is known as melting temperature and it is expressed by Tm. At melting temperature a polymer losses its identity and change into viscous liquid. It losses its strength and some molecular weight at melting temperature. Cellulose and protein fibres decompose before melting.

Typical values of Tg and Tm for some MMF:

Fibre                                                      Tg (0C)                                                     Tm (0C)

Nylon-6                                        50                                             215
Nylon-6.6                                     50                                             260
Polyester                                     69                                             260
PVC                                              81                                             310
PAN                                             97                                             314
Rubber                                                  -73                                             36
Cellulose tri-acetate                     -                                              300

v Thermal expansion:

Thermal expansion is the increment of length of a textile material after heating. Thermal expansion is measured by co- efficient of thermal expansion. Co-efficient of thermal expansion can be defined as the fractional increase in length of a material due to rise in temperature by 10 C.

Co-efficient of thermal expansion = Increase in length x100             
                        Initial length of a textile material

v Heat of wetting or heat of absorption:

When textile materials absorb water they show their ability to leave off small amount of heat which is known as heat of wetting or heat of absorption.

If 1 gm dried material is completely wetted, then heat in calorie/gm involved in that material is known as heat of wetting.

v Heat setting:
                   
Heat setting is the process of stabilizing the form, size and dimension of the material by drying and cooling in successive dry and wet condition.

For manmade fibre, heat setting process must be done to keep the dimension of fabric during further heat treatment. Usually, spandex or elastane is heat set at 180-2000C based on different brands. After heat setting material becomes able to keep its dimensions up to setting temperature. Heat setting is usually done by hot air or steam flow treatment.

Tuesday 29 August 2023

Flexural properties of Textile Fibre

 

Flexural properties

The behaviors shown by textile materials (fibre, yarn and fabric), when it is subjected to bending, are known as flexural properties.

a) Flexural rigidity:
            Flexural rigidity is the resistance of a textile fibre against bending. It can also be defined as the couple required to bend the fibre to unit curvature. The unit of flexural rigidity is N-mm2, N-m2 etc.

            Mathematically, Flexural rigidity, Rf =  1 x ηЕT2
                                                                              4∏      ρ            
Where, η = Shape factor
 Е = Specific shear modulus (in N/tex)
 T = Linear density (in tex)
            ρ = Density (in gram/cm3)

   Specific flexural rigidity:
           The specific flexural rigidity is the flexural rigidity of a textile fibre of unit linear density. Specific flexural rigidity is usually expressed as N-mm2/tex, N-m2/tex etc.

       Mathematically, Specific flexural rigidity = 1 x ηЕ(1)2  =  1 x ηЕ  
                                                                                 4∏      ρ        4∏    ρ
b) Bending recovery:
                The power of recovery from an immediate curvature of textile fibre is known as bending recovery. For example, nylon of 15 denier shows 100% recovery from a small curvature, whereas only 20% recovery is obtained from a large curvature.

c) Bending modulus:
         Bending modulus can be defined as the ratio between bending stress and bending strain. Here, bending strain is usually expressed as degree or radian.

      So, Bending modulus = Bending stress
                                         Bending strain
Shape factor:
               Shape factor is a quantity or number that indicates the thickness or cross-section of a fibre. Shape factor is usually expressed by η.

               If η =1, then the fibre is round shaped.
               If η >1, then the fibre thickness is increased.
               If η <1, then the fibre thickness is reduced.

Shape factor of different fibres:

Fibre
Shape factor
Fibre
Shape factor
Viscose
0.74
Acetate
0.67
Wool
0.80
Nylon
0.91
Silk
0.59
Glass
1.0

Monday 28 August 2023

Torsional Properties

 

Torsional Properties


The behaviors shown by textile fibre, when it is subjected to twisting is known as torsional properties. 

a) Torsional rigidity:

Torsional rigidity is the resistance of a textile fibre against twisting. It can also be defined as the torque applied to insert unit twist per unit length of fibre. The unit of torsional rigidity is N-mm2, N-m2 etc.

             Mathematically, Rt = ηЕT2
                                                    ρ               
Where, η = Shape factor
 Е = Specific shear modulus (in N/tex)
 T = Linear density (in tex)
            ρ = Density (in gram/cm3)

Specific torsional rigidity:

The specific torsional rigidity is the torsional rigidity of a textile fibre of unit linear density. Specific torsional rigidity is usually expressed as N-mm2/tex, N-m2/tex etc.


           Mathematically, Specific torsional rigidity = ηЕ (1)2 = ηЕ  
                                                                                           ρ           ρ
Where, η = Shape factor
 Е = Specific shear modulus (in N/tex)
 T = Linear density (in tex)
            ρ = Density (in gram/cm3)


Specific torsional rigidity of different fibres:

Fibre
Specific torsional rigidity
(mN-mm2/tex)
Cotton
0.16
Wool
0.12
Silk
0.16
Viscose
0.085
Nylon-6.6
0.06
Polyester
0.067

b) Breaking twist:

Breaking twist is the twist for which a textile fibre will break. Breaking twist can also be defined as the number of turns or twists required to break a fibre. Breaking twist depends upon the diameter of fibre and is inversely proportional to the diameter.

So, Breaking twist, Tb ∞1/d [d = fibre diameter]

Breaking twist angle:

The angle through which the outer layers of fibres are sheared at breaking is known as breaking twist angle.  Breaking twist angle is usually expressed as α.

Mathematically, Breaking twist angle, α = tan-1 ( d Tb)

Where, d = Fibre diameter & Tb = Breaking twist per unit length of fibre





Breaking twist angle of different fibres:

Fibre
Breaking twist angle (α)
Fibre
Breaking twist angle (α)
Cotton
350
Wool
400
Viscose
330
Silk
390
Polyester
500
Glass
40

C) Shear modulus:

Shear modulus can be defined as the ratio between shear stress and shear strain.

 So, Shear modulus = Shear stress
                                   Shear strain

Shear strain is usually measured in radian. Shear modulus of a fibre is expressed as kN/mm2. For example, shear modulus of wool is 1.3 kN/mm2.

Sunday 27 August 2023

OPTICAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE FIBRES

 

OPTICAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE FIBRES



The behaviors shown by a textile fibre when light falls on it are called as optical properties. The optical properties of a fibre include birefringence (basis on light refraction or transmission), dichorism (basis on light absorption) and luster (basis on light reflection).

Birefringence:                                                                              

When a beam of light falling on a textile fibre, it splits up into two refracted beams, one polarized parallel to the fibre axis and other polarized perpendicular to the fibre axis. The difference between the refractive index for light, polarized parallel to the fibre axis and the refractive index for light, polarized perpendicular to the fibre axis is called as birefringence value of fibre. Birefringence can be formalized by assigning two different refractive indices to the fibre for different polarizations. The birefringence magnitude is thus defined by-

          Δ n = n1-n2

Where n1 and n2 are the refractive indices for light, polarized parallel and perpendicular to the fibre axis respectively. Highest value of birefringence indicates that the most of the molecules are lined up parallel to the fibre axis and hence the orientation of fibre is higher. Ideally, oriented fibres have different birefringence value and the magnitude of birefringence ranges from -0.005 (for triacetate) to 0.188 (for terylene).

Factors affecting the birefringence of textile fibres:

The birefringence value of textile fibres depend on-

·   the degree of orientation and
·   the degree of asymmetric of the molecular chain (straight/zigzag/with side groups)

Dichorism:
           
The variation in the absorption of radiation by a colored fabric with the direction of polarization of light is called as dichorism, which may result in the difference of depth of shade or even in the actual color. For dyed fibre exhibiting dichorism, its magnitude is used as a measure of orientation of the molecules in the fibre. So, we get-

     φ = k1/k2
           
          Where, φ = Dichric/dichroitic constant
                         K1 = Absorption co-efficient of light polarized parallel to the fibre axis
                         K2 = Absorption co-efficient of light polarized perpendicular to the fibre axis   


Lustre:
           
Lustre is an important property of textile fibres. When a beam of light falls onto a fibre surface, it may be reflected along the angle of reflection. The reflection may vary with the angle of incidence, with the color and polarization of light. Lustre of textile fibres will be increased with the increase of regular light reflection.

Factors affecting the lustre of textile fibres:

·   Falling of light on fibre (across the fibre or along the fibre)
·   Fibre fineness
·   Regularities of fibre surface
·   Cross-sectional shape of fibre
·   Amount of small particles (TiO2) present in fibre
·   Maturity of fibre

Saturday 26 August 2023

Commonly Used Abbreviated Words Used In Textiles Arena

 

Commonly Used Abbreviated Words Used In Textiles Arena
 

RMG
Ready Made Garment
ISO
International Organization for Standardization
ANSI
American National Standards Institute
CIF
Cost, insurance and freight
CITA
Committee for the Implementation of Textile Agreements
CM
Cut and Make
COP
Cost of Production
EIN
Exporter Identification Number
ETD
Estimated Time of Departure
EXW
Ex-works
EU
European Union
FDI
Foreign Direct Investment
FOB
Free on Board
FTA
Free Trade Agreement
GATT
General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade
GDP
Gross Domestic Product
GSP
Generalized System of Preferences
ILO
International Labor Organization
JICA
Japan International Cooperation Agency
L/C
Letter of Credit
LDCs
Least Developed Countries
MFA
Multi-Fiber Arrangement
MOU
Memorandum of Understanding
P.S.I.
Pre-shipment Inspection
WTO
World Trade Organization
COC
Code of Conduct
EPZ
Export Processing Zone
BTMA
Bangladesh Textile Mills Association
BGMEA
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and exporters Association
BKMEA
Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and exporters Association
EPB
Export Promotion Bureau
GTZ
German Technical Cooperation
CAD
Computer Aided Design
CAM
Computer Aided Manufacturing
ERP
Enterprise Resource Planning
MRP
Material Requirement Planning
POS
Point of Sales
CAP
Corrective Action Plan
AQL
Acceptable Quality Level
CSR
Corporate Social Responsibility
ETI
Ethical Trading Initiative
BSCI
Business Social Compliance Initiative
WRAP
Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production
DC
Distribution Centre
QC
Quality Control
QA
Quality Assurance
FRI
Final Random Inspection
IPC
In- process check
 PPC
Pre production check
 IPC
Initial production check
 Du-Pro
During production check
MIL STD
Military Standard
ETP
Effluent Treatment Plant
BS
British Standard
AATCC
American Association for Textile Chemists and Colorists
ITS
Intertek Testing Service
BV
Bureau Veritas
LG
Letter of Guarantee
ETA
Estimated Time of Arrival
ETD
Estimated Time of Departure
SOP
Standard Operating Procedure
ANSI
American National Standards Institute
P.O.
Purchase Order
PSS
Product Specification Sheet

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