Manmade Fiber at a glance
A useful filament was not produced until the last part of the 19th
century when Swann and de Chardonnet extruded a solution of cellulose
nitrate (collodion) through small holes (spinnerets). These pioneer
manmade fibers were replaced by rayon fibers which were spun from an
alkaline cellulose xanthate solution (viscose), which were in turn
supplemented by cellulose acetate and many synthetic fibers.
History of Manmade Fibers
Year
|
Description
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1664
|
English naturalist Robert Hooke first suggested the possibility of
producing a fiber that would be “if not fully as good, nay better” than
silk.
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1855
|
The first patent for “artificial silk” was granted in England in 1855 to
a Swiss chemist named Audemars. He dissolved the fibrous inner bark of a
mulberry tree, chemically modifying it to produce cellulose. He formed
threads by dipping needles into this solution and drawing them out – but
it never occurred to him to emulate the silkworm by extruding the
cellulosic liquid through a small hole.
|
Early 1880’s
|
Sir Joseph W. Swan, an English chemist and electrician, inspired by
Thomas Edison’s new incandescent electric lamp. He experimented with
forcing a liquid similar to Audemars solution through fine holes into a
coagulating bath. His fibers worked like carbon filament, and they found
early use in Edison’s invention. In 1885 he exhibited in London some
fabrics crocheted by his wife from his new fiber, but he focused on
electric lamps and abandoned work on textiles.
|
1889
|
French chemist Count Hilaire deChardonnet displayed fabric “artificial silk” in the Paris Exhibition.
|
1890
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Count Hilarie deChardonnet built the first commercial rayon plant at
Besancon, France and secured his fame as the father of the rayon
industry.
|
1893
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Arthur D. Little of Boston, invented cellulosic acetate and developed it as a film.
|
1910
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The American Viscose Company, formed by Samuel Courtaulds and Co., Ltd., began production of rayon.
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By 1910
|
Camille and Henry Dreyfus were making acetate motion picture film and
toilet articles in Basel, Switzerland. During World War I, they built a
plant in England to produce cellulose acetate dope for airplane wings
and other commercial products. Upon entering the War, the United States
government invited the Dreyfus brothers to build a plant in Maryland to
make the product for American warplanes.
|
1924
|
First commercial textile uses for acetate in fiber form were developed by the Celanese Company.
|
Mid-1920’s
|
Textile manufacturers could purchase the rayon and acetate fibers for
half the price of raw silk, and so began manufactured fibers’ gradual
conquest of the American fiber market. This modest start in the 1920’s
grew to nearly 70% of the national market for fiber by the last decade
of the century.
|
1931
|
American chemist Wallace Carothers reported on research carried out in
the laboratories of the DuPont Company on “giant” molecules called
polymers. He focused his work on a fiber referred to simply as “66,” a
number derived from its molecular structure. Nylon, the “miracle fiber,”
was born. The Chemical Heritage Foundation is currently featuring an
exhibit on the history of nylon.
|
1938
|
Paul Schlack of the I.G. Farben Company in Germany, polymerized
caprolactam and created a different form of the polymer, identified
simply as nylon “6.” Nylon’s advent created a revolution in the fiber
industry. Rayon and acetate had been derived from plant cellulose, but
nylon was synthesized completely from petrochemicals. It established the
basis for the ensuing discovery of an entirely new world of
manufactured fibers.
|
1939
|
Vinyon was first produced in 1939 by American Viscose, now FMC Corporation.
|
1939
|
Vinyon was first produced in 1939 by American Viscose, now FMC Corporation.
|
1939
|
DuPont began commercial production of nylon. The first experimental
testing used nylon as sewing thread, in parachute fabric, and in women’s
hosiery. Nylon stockings were shown in February 1939 at the San
Francisco Exposition and the most exciting fashion innovation of the age
was underway. American women had only a sampling of the beauty and
durability of their first pairs of nylon hose when their romance with
the new fabric was cut short when the United States entered World War
II.
|
1941
|
The War Production Board allocated all production of nylon for military
use. During the War, nylon replaced Asian silk in parachutes. It also
found use in tires, tents, ropes, ponchos, and other military supplies,
and even was used in the production of a high-grade paper for U.S.
currency. At the outset of the War, cotton was king of fibers,
accounting for more than 80% of all fibers used. Manufactured and wool
fibers shared the remaining 20%.
|
August 1945
|
By the end of the war cotton stood at 75% of the fiber market.
Manufactured fibers had risen to 15%. After the war, GI’s came home,
families were reunited, industrial America gathered its peacetime
forces, and economic growth surged. The conversion of nylon production
to civilian uses started and when the first small quantities of postwar
nylon stockings were advertised, thousands of frenzied women lined up at
New York department stores to buy. In the immediate post-war period,
most nylon production was used to satisfy this enormous pent-up demand
for hosiery.
|
Late 1940’s
|
Nylon was also being used in carpeting and automobile upholstery. At the
same time, three new generic manufactured fibers started production.
Dow Badische Company (today, BASF Corporation) introduced metalized
fibers; Union Carbide Corporation developed modacrylic fiber; and
Hercules, Inc. added olefin fiber.
|
By the 1950’s
|
The industry was supplying more than 20% of the fiber needs of textile
mills. A new fiber, “acrylic,” was added to the list of generic names,
as DuPont began production of this wool-like product. Meanwhile,
polyester, first examined as part of the Wallace Carothers early
research, was attracting new interest at the Calico Printers Association
in Great Britain. There, J. T. Dickson and J. R. Whinfield produced a
polyester fiber by condensation polymerization of ethylene glycol with
terephthalic acid. DuPont subsequently acquired the patent rights for
the United States and Imperial Chemical Industries for the rest of the
world. A host of other producers soon joined in.
|
Summer 1952
|
“Wash-and-wear” was coined to describe a new blend of cotton and
acrylic. The term eventually was applied to a wide variety of
manufactured fiber blends. Commercial production of polyester fiber
transformed the wash-and-wear novelty into a revolution in textile
product performance.
|
1953
|
Polyester’s commercialization was accompanied by the introduction of
triacetate. The majority of the 20th century’s basic manufactured fibers
now had been discovered, and the industry’s engineers turned to
refining their chemical and physical properties to extend their use
across the American economy.
|
Early 1960’s
|
Manufactured fiber accounted for nearly 30% of American textile mill consumption.
|
By 1965
|
The manufactured fiber industry was providing over 40% of the nation’s fiber needs.
|
1960’s
|
Manufactured fiber production accelerated as it was spurred on by
continuous fiber innovation. The revolutionary new fibers were modified
to offer greater comfort, provide flame resistance, reduce clinging,
release soil, achieve greater whiteness, special dullness or luster,
easier dyeability, and better blending qualities. New fiber shapes and
thicknesses were introduced to meet special needs. Spandex, a
stretchable fiber; aramid, a high-temperature-resistant polyamide; and
para-aramid, with outstanding strength-to-weight properties, were
introduced into the marketplace. Consumers bought more and more clothing
made of polyester. Clotheslines were replaced by electric dryers, and
the “wash and wear” garments they dried emerged wrinkle free. Ironing
began to shrink away from the daily list of household chores. Fabrics
became more durable and color more permanent. New dyeing effects were
being achieved and shape-retaining knits offered new comfort and style.
|
Late 1960’s
|
One dramatic new set of uses for manufactured fibers came with the
establishment of the U.S. space program. The industry provided special
fiber for uses ranging from clothing for the astronauts to spaceship
nose cones. When Neil Armstrong took “One small step for man, one giant
leap for mankind,” on the moon on July 20, 1969, his lunar space suit
included multi-layers of nylon and aramid fabrics. The flag he planted
was made of nylon. Today, the exhaust nozzles of the two large booster
rockets that lift the space shuttle into orbit contain 30,000 pounds of
carbonized rayon. Carbon fiber composites are used in as structural
components in the latest commercial aircraft, adding strength and
lowering weight and fuel costs.
|
Early 1970’s
|
A wave of consumer protection demands emerged, most notably one for a
mandated Federal flammability standard for children’s sleepwear. The
manufactured fiber industry spent $20 million on flammability research
and development in 1972 and 1973 and manufactured fiber fabrics became
predominant in this market. Flammability standards were also issued for
carpet and other products. In the U.S. carpet market, 99% of all surface
fibers are now manufactured fibers.
|
Late 1973
|
When the U.S. was struck by a severe energy crisis, the manufactured
fiber industry reduced the energy required to produce a pound of fiber
by 26%. By then, the industry was using but 1% of the Nation’s petroleum
supply to provide two-thirds of all fibers used by American textile
mills. Innovation is the hallmark of the manufactured fiber industry.
Fibers more numerous and diverse than any found in nature, are now
routinely created in the industry’s laboratories.
|
1990’s
|
Nylon variants, polyester, and olefin are used to produce carpets that
easily can be rinsed clean even 24 hours after they’ve been stained.
Stretchable spandex and machine-washable, silk-like polyesters occupy
solid places in the U.S. apparel market. The finest microfibers are
remaking the world of fashion.
|
Late 1990’s
|
Increased environmental awareness further encourages manufacturers to
become green manufacturers, reducing energy consumption, cleaning up or
eliminating air and water pollution, and recycling production supplies
and finding environmentally safe uses for fabric waste.
|
2001
|
Cargill Dow introduces the first completely renewable fiber made of
plant dextrose from cornstarch, polylactide (PLA) and markets it as
InGeo. It competes in durability with the petrochemicals and can be
disposed of safely as completely biodegradable end-use products. PLA has
application in interior design materials and carpeting, apparel,
packaging, and industry.
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Today
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Fiber research and improvement continues. As they always have, manufactured fibers continue to mean, “life made better.”
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