Principle of Pattern Making

 

Pattern: It is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garments.

Pattern making steps:

The pattern which is used in garments industry is in two ways:

1.      Block pattern or Basic block,

2.      Working or garment pattern.

1. Block pattern or Basic block:

Block pattern or Basic block is individual component of garments without any design or style. It is produced according to exact dimension of standard body measurement where no allowance is considered.

Block patterns are made in two ways:

I)       Flat method,

II)     Modeling.

a. Flat method:

In this method, the pattern of different parts of garments especially body and sleeve are made by technical drawing. In technical drawing, the rule and application of method of body measurement and its ratio depends on pattern maker. This type of pattern can be made by computer. In this case, the program of pattern making is stored in computer disc. Actually this method comes from modeling method and by this method fast pattern making is possible.

b. Modeling:

It is primary and first method and is widely still used in garments industry still now. In this method, Block is made with standard body measurement of dummy is called Toile. Toile is worn on the body of dummy to check fittings. Then toile is worn out from the body of dummy and individual parts of toile are drawn on hard paper or board paper. In this method, more time is required but most efficient.

2. Garments pattern:

Garments pattern is made on the basis of block pattern or basic block. Individual block pattern are drawn on hard paper or board paper. Allowance i.e. sewing allowance, trimming allowance, centre front line, centre back line, button hole, dart, pleat is considered.

Pattern Construction:

i)                    Manual

ii)                  Computerized-a) Directly by CAD (Tools required: Special software-Installed-Operation)

                          b) By using digitizer (Tools required: Special software, A digitizing table with cordless mouse)

Software brand: 1. LECTRA   2. TUKA  3. INVESTRONICA  4. Garber Garment Technology (GGT)

Principles of digitizing system:

a)      In digitizing system of pattern construction there is need a digitizer which is sensitized table with a cordless mouse which has a networking system with the computer.

b)      At first base pattern (M-size) must be digitized in the system.

c)      To do this each pattern pieces have to be placed on the digitizing table.

d)      Then place digital mouse at each corner points & press enter or click.

e)      The mouse picks up the lines of patterns on the table and shows them on the screen.

f)       Thus the whole shape can be produced.

Principles of CAD system:

a)      The pattern maker manipulates small graphic patterns on the computer screen with the help of         mouse.

b)      Geometry drivers can make an infinite number of changes to the shapes and sizes of the patterns.

c)      Finally it is possible to create new designs by CAD system.